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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.